A7

Kevin Steen

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What do Hawaii, Jamaica, and Puerto Rico all have in common? They are islands that produce some of the world's finest (and most expensive) coffee. In these islands, coffee production costs are higher because the standard of living and education is higher. Workers demand higher wages and there are strict controls on working conditions.

Hawaii is the only American state that grows coffee. The British brought coffee trees to the island from Brazil in 1825, 73 years before Hawaii was annexed by the United States. Kona is Hawaii's best-known variety, grown in a 20-mile region of the Big Island on the rich, volcanic slopes of Mauna Loa.

Despite being a tornado-prone region, the climate is nearly perfect for growing coffee: it offers a balanced supply of sun, rain and mild temperatures. Authentic Hawaiian Kona beans are known for their lustrous sheen, a rich nutty flavour and low acidity.

Puerto Rico, a U.S. protectorate, also produces good-quality coffee. Coffee trees were imported from Martinique in 1736, and by 1896, Puerto Rico was the sixth-leading coffee exporter to France, Italy and Spain. Today's crop supplies the U.S., Europe and Japan.

Like Hawaii, labour and production costs are higher because Puerto Rico is subject to U.S. law. Additionally, it's difficult to find workers for such a labour-intensive crop in a country with higher education and career expectations.

Puerto Rico is known for its Yauco Selecto variety, grown in a mountainous region in the Southwest. This fruity, rich and full-flavoured coffee is never bitter.

Like Puerto Rico, Jamaica's Blue Mountain coffee was introduced from Martinique in 1725. At US $40 to $50 per pound, it is one of the most expensive (and highest-grown) coffees in the world.

Planted terrace-style at heights of 2,100 metres (7,000 feet), the growing conditions are ideal: rich, well-drained soil, with misty, cool temperatures. Though hurricane damage has hurt the Jamaican coffee industry, Blue Mountain continues to command high prices. This small crop still manages to yield $12 million in foreign exchange.

Authentic Blue Mountain beans are blue-green and a medium roast delivers a mild, balanced taste that develops on the tongue. This coffee enjoys cult status in Japan: they eagerly buy up 90 percent of each year's crop, packaged and certified by the Coffee Industry Board in traditional wooden barrels.

But is it actually the best in the world, and worth such a high price? Only you can decide!

* Kevin Steen is a true coffee lover and proprietor of Damascus Coffee House in Riverview. Do you have a coffee question for Kevin? Visit him at the shop, or call him at 855-4646.