
Espresso the old-fashioned way
Published Thursday May 21st, 2009


Both France and Italy are coffee cultures, each country claiming the invention of certain brewing methods, and even the word espresso itself!
"Some say that the word espresso derives from the French word expres, meaning 'especially for' or 'purposely for' - identifying the way that the drink is made especially for one person," says Jon Thorn, in his book, The Coffee Companion. "But other sources suggest that the name comes from the Italian verb meaning 'to put under pressure', which is exactly how the beverage is made."
The moka pot is a traditional way of making stovetop espresso. A fixture in every Italian kitchen, this method is inexpensive, easy to use, quick to clean up, and portable. I recently picked one up (an Italian-made stainless steel Bialetti) at a local housewares store, and tried my hand at making stovetop espresso.
Here's how it works: two aluminum or stainless steel chambers are stacked and separated by a removable filter. Cold water is placed in the bottom chamber, while fine to medium-ground espresso fills the filter. The top chamber sits empty until heat from the stovetop forces hot water up from the bottom chamber through the coffee grounds. Then, the steaming espresso flows out of the center fountain.
It all happens more quickly than you expect. As soon as the water is close to boiling, it is forced through the coffee very quickly. For this reason, it's important to keep the heat just above medium - boiled coffee is bitter coffee! Once the bottom chamber has been emptied of water, remove it from the heat.
Since the ideal professional espresso requires nine atmospheres of pressure and a moka pot can only muster up 1.5 to three, you will not produce a thick, rich crema on your stovetop espresso, but the moka pot does yield an intense, rich, fragrant brew with more texture and body than a regular cup of coffee.
If you would like to add a couple of tablespoons of steamed milk to your espresso (called a macchiato) you can either beat skimmed milk with a whisk while it's heating on top of the stove, or pour the hot milk into your French press and pump the plunger a few times until the milk is thickened and expanded in volume.
Some say traditional methods are best ... be sure to drop into the shop and tell me if you agree!
* Kevin Steen is a true coffee lover and proprietor of Damascus Coffee House in Riverview. Do you have a coffee question for Kevin? Visit him at the shop, or call him at 855-4646.


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